A detailed 21-day Japan itinerary

I can still smell the charcoal from the yakitori stalls and hear the rhythmic clack-clack of the wooden sandals in Kyoto. Building this Japan itinerary wasn’t just about checking off landmarks; it was about capturing that heart-tugging contrast that stays with you long after the jet lag fades. This itinerary features a combination that honors heavy hitters (I mean, the neon lights of Shibuya and the blinding gold of Kinkaku-ji temple are touristy for a reason) but beyond the icons balances them with a six-seat soba shop where the chef doesn’t speak a word of English but makes the best buckwheat noodles of your life. I’ve also packed in the hard-won secrets—like how to navigate the Shinkansen trains seamlessly.

From Edo-era castles to metropolises, from shogun villages to iconic volcanoes, and from tranquil temples to surprising wildlife, here’s what I did in the space of three weeks.

TOKYO // 4 days

With most flights landing into Narita airport, it only made sense to spend a little time in the Japanese capital; plus, it’s the kind of mega city you’ve just got to be in to fully grasp its tremendous size and significance. Nevertheless, I was hesitant about spending too much time in Tokyo, however fascinating it may be, as I wanted to cover as much ground as possible.

Regardless of how much or how little time I was in Tokyo for, I simply would not forego drinks at New York Bar atop the iconic Park Hyatt: totally worth the expense, the best possible way to conclude (or begin!) this epic Japanese odyssey. This is where they filmed Lost in Translation.

Useful tip: if you’re budget-strapped, skip the prohibitively expensive observation deck fees and go to Sky Tree East Tower instead where you get can to the 31st floor free of charge; not quite as high, but still impressive (see city view photo above).

NIKKO // 1 day

The small city of Nikko is located in a mountainous area north of Tokyo called the Tochigi Prefecture, and is home to some of the most famous and esteemed shrines in the country: UNESCO World Heritage Site of Toshogu Shrine, erected in 1617 to commemorate the founding ruler of the Tokugawa shogunate and ultimate feudal military government, Tokugawa Ieyasu. It’s a stretch on any typical Japan Itinerary but it’s well worth the trip.

Here, you will find luxuriant woodlands with rows and rows of stone lanterns, occasionally dotted with vermillion gates. A truly spiritual and grandiose place and one of the most popular day trips from Tokyo, although it is possible to stay overnight.

MOUNT FUJI // 1 day

Located right outside Tokyo, the majestic mountain is one of the most popular day trip destinations in the area. Rightfully so; the stratovolcano is Japan’s highest peak at 12,389 feet tall as well as both a Special Place of Scenic Beauty (a great page to bookmark if you want to hit Japan’s prettiest sights, by the way) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The easiest and most cost-efficient way to admire Fujisan is by sitting on the right-hand side of the shinkansen travelling between Tokyo and Kyoto. The mountain majestically soars into the picture about 45 minutes into the journey.

Day trips to Mount Fuji

Many tour operators offer day trips to the sacred mountain; should you wish to travel to Mount Fuji independently, note that hiking trails are only officially open in July and August. You can also book this VIP experience in Mount Fuji with local priests.

KYOTO // 5 days

Not only does Kyoto hold an impressive quantity of temples and castles, it is strategically located on the Tokaido Shinkansen line for easy side trips and has plenty of mouth-watering restaurants to keep your appetite satisfied. Speaking of which, most of the noteworthy temples are located in the same area north-west of the main train station, making it easy to visit all of them on a single day: I’m specifically thinking of Kinkakuji (the Golden Temple), Ryoanji and Toji-in temples.

Other fun things to do in Kyoto? Arashiyama (bamboo grove, monkey park, splendid hiking opportunities), Ginkakuji (the Silver Pavilion), Toji Temple (believe it or not, it’s an entirely different temple), Philosopher’s Walk, Inari Shrine and Higashiyama historic district.

Handy tip: if you’re planning on wearing sandals or go commando in your shoes, bring a pair of socks with you; this being Japan, you won’t be authorised to enter temples with your shoes on or barefoot.

Also, a side note about maikos and geishas in Gion: whatever you do, remember to be respectful to geishas you encounter. If you want to take a picture of them, just ask – a lot of geishas have complained in recent years that tourists act like ruthless paparazzi. Please don’t be that person!

NARA // 1 day

It just ticked all the boxes of things you expect to find in a place like Japan: cute animals, wareshinobu-clad maikos, immense Buddhist temples, and mystical forests. I found all that here, in this small city just outside Kyoto. Although a destination in its own right (there are a few hotels near the train station), Nara is a worthwhile day trip from the ancient capital. It was Japan’s first permanent capital in the year 710; as such, it is home to over eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, second only to Kyoto as a directory of Japan’s cultural heritage.

Things to do in Nara

• Tōdai-ji: the largest wooden building in the world, which, astonishingly enough, is actually a mere two-thirds of its estimated original size. It contains the Great Buddha (not an understatement, at 16 metres high and 437 tonnes of bronze) is housed inside.
• Horyuji Temple
• Nara Park and its equal parts tame, hungry, and adorable deer

Day trips to Nara from Kyoto

• Highlights of Nara by bike
• Nara craft beer and sake walking tour

HIMEJI // 1 day

Confession time: I didn’t actually step foot inside Himeji Castle. I unknowingly turned up just two days after the gates reopened following massive renovations, and frankly, I wasn’t about to spend three hours of my precious time in Japan standing in a queue. I decided to pivot and stick to the sprawling, flowery gardens surrounding the fortress. It was a peaceful alternative, and I felt fine skipping the interior knowing I had another fabulous castle lined up later in the week. Sometimes the best travel move is knowing when to ditch the crowd and just enjoy the view from the outside.

HIROSHIMA // 1 day

You simply can’t travel along the southern coast of Honshu—or plan a serious Japan itinerary—without spending time in Hiroshima. It is a city of incredible resilience. Despite being largely obliterated by the atomic bomb during World War II, Hiroshima is thriving today, balancing its tragic past with a vibrant, modern energy. Major landmarks like Hiroshima Castle and the Shukkeien Garden, both vital pieces of the city’s heritage, were destroyed in the blast but have since been meticulously reconstructed. They are absolutely worth a visit today to see that rebirth firsthand.

The most powerful site, however, is the UNESCO A-Bomb Dome. It stands as a stark, haunting symbol of peace, preserved as a skeletal ruin of the former Industrial Promotion Hall. Right nearby is the lush, leafy expanse of the Peace Memorial Park. Built over what was once the city’s busiest business district, it’s a beautiful, somber space dedicated to those who lost their lives in 1945. It’s the kind of place that stays with you long after you leave.

Hiroshima guided tours & day trips:

• Hiroshima cycling peace tour with local guide
• Hiroshima bar-hopping food tour

MIYAJIMA // 1 day

Just across the bay from Hiroshima lies the postcard-perfect island of Miyajima, home to the world-famous “floating torii gate” of Itsukushima Shrine, which dramatically anchors itself 16 meters deep in the tide. While it looks like it’s drifting in the sea at high tide, the real trick is sticking around for low tide—you can actually walk right out to the base of the massive vermillion pillars. It’s a surreal perspective you won’t get from a boat, and it’s exactly why I recommend dedicating a full day to the island.

Beyond the shrine, Miyajima is a hiker’s playground. There’s a network of trails snaking around Mount Misen that offer some of the best coastal views in the country. If you’re not in the mood for a climb, you can still snag those panoramic views with zero physical effort: take the cable car up to the Shishiiwa Observatory. It’s the ultimate “cheat code” for a bird’s-eye view of the Seto Inland Sea without breaking a sweat.

Miyajima guided tours & day trips:

• Authentic tea ceremony experience while wearing Kimono in Miyajima
• Visit World Heritage site Itsukushima Shrine by sea

KANAZAWA // 1 day

Gemini said

Kanazawa was a non-negotiable addition to this Japan itinerary. I was drawn here by the sheer grit and gold of its history; during the Edo Period, this was the stronghold of the formidable Maeda Clan. They were among the wealthiest in the nation, but in feudal Japan, that kind of success usually came with a target on your back.

To protect their seat of power, the Maedas stationed an elite force of samurai in the Nagamachi District. Walking through those streets today, right at the foot of Kanazawa Castle, you can still feel that defensive tension in the air.

Beyond the warrior history, you have to carve out a few hours for the “Big Two”. Firstly, Kenrokuen Garden widely considered Japan’s most celebrated landscape garden. Secondly, Higashi Chaya District, the real deal—a neighborhood of ancient wooden teahouses where geishas still live, work, and perform. It’s like stepping into a woodblock print, provided you know which alleys to disappear down.

JAPANESE ALPS // 2 days

The last few days of this journey take us deep into the heart of Nagano. The mission was simple: hang out with the legendary snow monkeys and decompress in a traditional ryokan, complete with a proper onsen soak and a multi-course dinner.

I’ll be honest—I was bracing for a total cultural faux-pas. There’s a lot of silent etiquette to navigate in a traditional inn, but I made it out unscathed and, more importantly, completely recharged. Between the steam of the thermal baths and the precision of the local cuisine, Nagano prefecture was the perfect, high-contrast finish to three weeks of non-stop exploration.

MATSUMOTO // 1 day

The detour on this Japan Itinerary by this somewhat underrated portion of Honshu Island was mainly to visit Matsumoto Castle, one of Japan’s premier historic castles and a splendid work of art. Its value is simply inestimable, as it still contains original wooden interiors and external stonework. It really was a fascinating journey into the history of the military in Japan; the castle is awash with secret passageways, tricky steep stairs, and other secrets that only samurais were privy to. I think I ended up having a much better and more informative time at Matsumoto than I would have at Himeji, which was way too crowded.