When travel is concerned, I firmly believe that you should always, always stay in a place at least as long as it took to get there—especially when that place is halfway across the world. You’ve got to make it worth your while! With that in mind and with 19 hours of transit ahead of me, I set out to put together my three-week Japan itinerary which, as a first timer in the land of the rising sun, would take me to all the main sights.

From Edo-era castles to metropolises, from shogun villages to iconic volcanoes, and from tranquil temples to surprising wildlife, here’s what I did in the space of three weeks.

TOKYO // 4 days

Where I stayed: Millennium Mitsui Garden Hotel Tokyo

With most flights landing into Narita airport, it only made sense to spend a little time in the Japanese capital; plus, it’s the kind of mega city you’ve just got to be in to fully grasp its tremendous size and significance.

Nevertheless, I was hesitant about spending too much time in Tokyo, however fascinating it may be, as I wanted to cover as much ground as possible.

Things to do in Tokyo:

• Drinks at New York Bar atop the iconic Park Hyatt on my final night in Japan: totally worth the expense, the best possible way to conclude this epic Japanese odyssey. This is where they filmed Lost in Translation.
• Ueno Park (I was in Tokyo during cherry blossom season)
• Meiji Jingu shinto shrine
• SkyTree: if you’re budget-strapped, skip the prohibitively expensive observation deck fees and go to Sky Tree East Tower instead where you get can to the 31st floor free of charge; not quite as high, but still impressive (see city view photo above).
• Senso-ji Temple
• $1 conveyor belt sushi in Shinjuku
• Shibuya crossing
• Shopping and browsing in Harajuku
• Edo Museum

Tokyo guided tours & day trips:

• Shinjuku and Kabukicho Walking Tour
• Old and Nostalgic Tokyo: Yanaka Walking Tour
• Sumo Morning Practice
• Soba-Making with a Master
• Taiko Drum Lesson
• Japanese Garden Tour and Sake Tasting
• Green Tea and Wagashi Experience
• Samurai Experience
• Geisha Experience + Kaiseki Course Dinner
• Tsukiji Fish Market Tour with Sushi Making Experience
• Sake Brewery Tour including Sake-Tasting

NIKKO // 1 day

Where I stayed: Okunoin Hotel Tokugawa

The small city of Nikko is located in a mountainous area north of Tokyo called the Tochigi Prefecture, and is home to some of the most famous and esteemed shrines in the country: UNESCO World Heritage Site of Toshogu Shrine, erected in 1617 to commemorate the founding ruler of the Tokugawa shogunate and ultimate feudal military government, Tokugawa Ieyasu.

It’s a stretch on any typical Japan Itinerary but it’s well worth the trip.

Here, you will find luxuriant woodlands with rows and rows of stone lanterns, occasionally dotted with vermillion gates. A truly spiritual and grandiose place and one of the most popular day trips from Tokyo, although it is possible to stay overnight.

Day trips to Nikko

• Nikko National Park Day Trip from Tokyo
• Best of Edo Japan: Nikko National Park and Edo Wonderland Day Trip from Tokyo
• 2 Days Onsen, Trekking and Zen Meditation Tour in Nikko
• Nikko, Lake Chuzenji, Kegon Waterfalls including Lunch from Tokyo

MOUNT FUJI // 1 day

Where I stayed: Rakuyu

Located right outside Tokyo, the majestic mountain is one of the most popular day trip destinations in the area. Rightfully so; the stratovolcano is Japan’s highest peak at 12,389 feet tall as well as both a Special Place of Scenic Beauty (a great page to bookmark if you want to hit Japan’s prettiest sights, by the way) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Fuji’s unusually symmetrical snow-capped cone is a well-known symbol of Japan and it is frequently depicted both touristy and authentic artworks.

The easiest and most cost-efficient way to admire Fujisan is by sitting on the right-hand side of the shinkansen travelling between Tokyo and Kyoto. The mountain majestically soars into the picture about 45 minutes into the journey.

Day trips to Mount Fuji

Many tour operators offer day trips to the sacred mountain; should you wish to travel to Mount Fuji independently, note that hiking trails are only officially open in July and August.

• Forest hiking in Mount Fuji
• Lake cruise in Mount Fuji
• VIP experience in Mount Fuji with local priests
• Motorcoach excursion including a trip up to Mt. Fuji’s 5th Station and a ride on the Komagatake Ropeway

KYOTO // 5 days

Where I stayed: Hotel Granvia Kyoto

Not only does Kyoto hold an impressive quantity of temples and castles, it is strategically located on the Tokaido Shinkansen line for easy side trips and has plenty of mouth-watering restaurants to keep your appetite satisfied. Good to know, though: most of the noteworthy temples are located in the same area north-west of the train station, making it easy to visit all of them on a single day.

Handy tip: if you’re planning on wearing sandals or go commando in your shoes, bring a pair of socks with you; this being Japan, you won’t be authorised to enter temples with your shoes on or barefoot.

Things to do in Kyoto

• Arashiyama (bamboo grove, monkey park, splendid hiking opportunities)
• Fushimi Inari Shrine
• Evening in Gion on the lookout for geishas and maikos
  • Side note about geishas: whatever you do, remember to be respectful to geishas you encounter. If you want to take a picture of them, just ask – a lot of geishas have complained in recent years that tourists act like ruthless paparazzi. Please don’t be that person!
• Kinkakuji, the Golden Temple
• Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavilion
• Ryoanji
• Toji-in Temple
• Toji Temple (believe it or not, it’s an entirely different temple)
• Philosopher’s Walk
• Higashiyama historic district

Kyoto guided tours & day trips to consider:

• • Kyoto Full-Day Sightseeing Tour
  • Maiko Performance with Kaiseki Dinner
  • Kyoto Small-Group Bike Tour
  • Tea Ceremony with a Tea Master
  • Morning Tour: Kyoto Imperial Palace, Golden Pavilion, Nijo Castle
  • Samurai School
  • Fushimi Inari and Sake Brewery Tour
  • Gion by Night: Culture Performance with Dinner
  • Arashiyama and Sagano Morning Walking Tour
  • Nishiki Market: The Heart of Kyoto Cuisine

NARA // 1 day

Nara was an absolute delight and one of my favourite stops on this Japan itinerary.

Where I stayed: Noborioji Hotel Nara

It just ticked all the boxes of things you expect to find in a place like Japan: cute animals, wareshinobu-clad maikos, immense Buddhist temples, and mystical forests. I found all that here, in this small city just outside Kyoto.

Although a destination in its own right (there are a few hotels near the train station), Nara is a worthwhile day trip from the ancient capital. It was Japan’s first permanent capital in the year 710; as such, it is home to over eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites, second only to Kyoto as a directory of Japan’s cultural heritage.

Things to do in Nara

• Tōdai-ji: the largest wooden building in the world, which, astonishingly enough, is actually a mere two-thirds of its estimated original size. It contains the Great Buddha (not an understatement, at 16 metres high and 437 tonnes of bronze) is housed inside.
• Horyuji Temple
• Nara Park and its equal parts tame, hungry, and adorable deer

HIMEJI // 1 day

Where I stayed: Daiwa Roynet Hotel Himeji

Confession time: I didn’t actually go inside Himeji Castle.

I unknowingly turned up two days after the castle had reopened following massive renovations, and frankly I wasn’t too keen on the three-hour long queue. I decided to stick to the flowery gardens instead, knowing that another fabulous castle was on my itinerary later in the week.

HIROSHIMA // 1 day

Where I stayed: Hotel Kuretakeso Hiroshima Otemachi

You simply can’t travel along the southern coast of Honshu Island — or plan any Japan Itinerary — and not spend some time in Hiroshima. Even though Hiroshima was largely obliterated by an atomic bomb —ironically named Little Boy— during World War II, the city is now thriving and well. Hiroshima Castle and Shukkeien Garden, two major monuments pertaining to Hiroshima’s historical heritage, were destroyed during the bombing and were later on reconstructed; they can be visited today.

The UNESCO A-Bomb Dome acts as a stark symbol of Hiroshima’s newfound peace, as only the skeleton of what once was Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall building remains. Nearby is the lush and leafy Peace Memorial Park, built over the former business district, which commemorates people who lost their lives on that fateful day in 1945.

Hiroshima guided tours & day trips to consider:

• Hiroshima & Miyajima 1-Day Tour from Hiroshima
• Hiroshima Half-day Private Custom Tour with National Licensed Guide
• Central Hiroshima, Miyajima, Iwakuni including traditional lunch
• Hiroshima Cycling Peace Tour with Local Guide
• Rabbit Island Private Tour from Hiroshima with Local Guide
• Hiroshima & Miyajima 1-day cruise tour

MIYAJIMA // 1 day

Where I stayed: Hotel Kuretakeso Hiroshima Otemachi

Almost right across the bay from Hiroshima is the quaint island of Miyajima, home to the iconic Itsukushima Temple.

Its claim to fame is undoubtedly the bold Itsukushima Shrine, which dramatically soars 16 metres high out of the water; it’s often referred to as a “floating torii gate” in popular culture. Interestingly, it’s possible to walk right up to the shrine at low tide—which is why I highly recommend spending a full day on Miyajima.

Things to do in Miyajima

• There are plenty of exciting hiking trails around Mount Misen
• A 27-metres high, 5-storied pagoda
• The old town of Miyajima
• Shishiiwa Observatory, accessible by cable car

Miyajima guided tours & day trips to consider:

• Trekking Tour of the World Heritage Miyajima
• Hiroshima & Miyajima 1-day cruise tour
• Hiroshima & Miyajima 1-Day Tour from Hiroshima
• Central Hiroshima, Miyajima, Iwakuni including traditional lunch
• Rabbit Island Private Tour from Hiroshima with Local Guide

KANAZAWA // 1 day

Where I stayed: The Square Hotel KANAZAWA

I wanted to visit Kanazawa because of its famously well-preserved heritage from the Edo Period when it served as the seat of the powerful Maeda feudal Clan. It was one of the wealthiest clans in terms of fief sizes and rice production, but with great power come equally great threats. The Maeda clan, therefore, employed several samurais and offered them property at the foot of Kanazawa Castle in Nagamachi District, which can still be visited today.

Japan’s most celebrated landscape garden, Kenrokuen, as well as Higashi Chaya District, filled with ancient wooden teahouses where geishas work and perform, are both well worth a few hours.

Kanazawa guided tours & day trips to consider:

• Full Day Small Group Tour of Kanazawa
• Geiko (Geisha) Performance & Dinner
• Omicho Market Tour & Cooking Class
• Kimono trip in historical Kanazawa
• Explore Kanazawa via Bicycle

JAPANESE ALPS // 2 days

Where I stayed: Yamanouchi Ryokan

Moving on to the Japanese Alps for the last few days of this Japan itinerary, where I had planned on hanging out with snow monkeys and experience a ryokan with an onsen and a traditional dinner.

It was absolutely perfect and even though I was terrified of committing a cultural faux-pas I managed to make it out unscathed, and infinitely more appreciative of my time in the Nagano prefecture.

Janapese Alps guided tours & day trips to consider:

• Full-Day Tour of Snow Monkeys, Zenko-ji Temple and Sake in Nagano
• Explore Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park and Knowledgeable Local Guide
• Nagano Full-Day Cycling Tour with Snow Monkey, Obuse Town, Apple Orchards
• Nagano Private Two Day Tour with Guide, Private Vehicle and Overnight at Ryokan

MATSUMOTO // 1 day

Where I stayed: Matsumoto Hotel Kagetsu 

The detour on this Japan Itinerary by this somewhat underrated portion of Honshu Island was mainly to visit Matsumoto Castle, one of Japan’s premier historic castles and a splendid work of art. Its value is simply inestimable, as it still contains original wooden interiors and external stonework. It really was a fascinating journey into the history of the military in Japan; the castle is awash with secret passageways, tricky steep stairs, and other secrets that only samurais were privy to.

I think I ended up having a much better and more informative time at Matsumoto than I would have at Himeji, which was way too crowded.